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Isle of Lewis
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Transport / Travel tips |
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Lewis is a fairly flat island with many spectacular sandy beaches, a rugged coastline and a landscape that is worth investigating by detouring down all the little roads you find. Most visitors come to see the Calanais (Callanish) standing stones, but it is also a good area for fishing, cycling, walking and bird watching. There are many other standing stones and archaeological monuments to visit too.
The Gaelic name for Lewis is Leodhas which means marshy. Most of the island is indeed covered by a blanket of peat. Deposits of this started some 5000 years ago and today you can see it being cut and dried for later use as fuel. The underlying rock, Lewisian gneiss, is thought to be 2900 million years old - half as old as the Earth itself.
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Here in the Western Isles (formerly known as the Outer Hebrides) the landscape and history of Lewis, together with the hospitality of its people provide a wonderful escape from the pressures of modern life. With luck you may even see otters, seals, eagles or dolphins. Deer tend to keep to the high ground during the summer, but sometimes you can see them on the Harris Estate near Ardhasaig and Ardvoulie along the main road from Tarbert to Stornoway. In the summer months there are many colourful wild flowers to be seen on the machair. The heather is a picture of purple in late summer when in full bloom. |
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Thanks to the scorched earth policy of Magnus III, known as Magnus Barelegs because he adopted the Scottish kilt rather than wear Viking trousers, many of the original trees on Lewis were destroyed. In more recent times, trees have been replanted in various parts of the island and it is always a lovely surprise to come across them.
To enjoy Lewis and neighbouring Harris at the nice slow pace they deserve, you really need at least 4 days. After that you will have fallen in love with the islands and will probably want to return for a week or more on your next visit! Combined with the islands of the Uists and Barra to the south, you could easily spend 2 weeks here and still not want to go home. Today some 20,000 people live on Harris and Lewis and it is the most populated of the Western Isles group (although you might not notice it that much when you are there!).
How to get to Lewis
By air to Stornoway Airport:
- Loganair/British Airways operate flights to/from Stornoway, Barra, Benbecula, Inverness, Glasgow, London and other destinations Monday - Saturday. Limited Sunday flights.
- Highland Airways operate an 18-seater Island Hopper service linking Glasgow and Inverness with Stornoway and Benbecula (Monday-Saturday).
- Eastern Airways will operate between Aberdeen and Stornoway (Monday-Saturday).
Facilities at the airport include car hire, taxis, refreshments and wireless Internet access via BT OpenZone.
Vehicle ferry:
During the summer, a ferry sails from Ullapool on the mainland to Stornoway 2 or 3 times a day except Sundays. The service is slightly reduced during the winter. Journey time: 2 hours 40 minutes. Vehicle reservation required.
The official Caledonian Macbrayne website lists the current timetables in detail.Although treated as two separate islands with distinct characteristics, Harris and Lewis form a single landmass. This means you can drive from one to the other. The main road between Stornoway (Lewis) and Tarbert (Harris) is 37 miles which takes about an hour by car or bus. How to get to Harris by ferry
Tours and excursions
- Coach trips of Lewis are provided in the summer by MacLennan Coaches from Stornoway Bus Station - consult the tourist information centre for details. This enables you to see Callanish, Gearrannan black house village, Carloway broch, and Arnol black house on the west coast of Lewis. Buy an all day ticket and jump on / jump off at the stops you want. Cheaper tickets (with limited number of stops are also available). Tel/Fax: 01851 702 114.
- On Saturdays from end May until end August, a coach tour of Lewis operates from Tarbert on Harris to coincide with the arrival of the 11.15am ferry from Skye. The bus takes you on a circular tour of Lewis (including Callanish, Carloway Broch, Arnol Black House and Stornoway) and brings you back to Tarbert in time for the 8pm ferry back to Uig on Skye. If you want to do this as a day trip from Skye, book your tickets at the ferry office in Uig (tel: 01470 542219).
- Day trips by ferry/coach to Lewis operate from Ullapool and Inverness on Wednesdays and Fridays: 25 June to 1 September 2007. You can get the 9.30am Calmac ferry from Ullapool and join a coach tour at Stornoway taking you to the Callanish standing stones, Carloway Broch and Arnol Black House. You then get time in Stornoway and leave at 7pm and reach Ullapool at approximately 9.45pm.
- Puffin Express offers a day trip from Inverness. Operates on certain Fridays in July and August 2008. You visit the Carloway broch, Gearrannan black houses, and various Callanish sites.
Tour Guides:
- Based on Lewis, Albannach Guided Tours can offer private tours and tour planning (including accommodation) throughout the Hebrides, Scotland and other Celtic countries. Les McInulty is a 'Blue Badge' Gaelic-speaking driver-guide available for hire from 1 hour to 2 weeks. Either for private car, minibus, coach or for guided walks. Lewis & Harris taxi service available. Specialises in day trips to places on the islands which are not accessible by public transport. Tel/Fax: 01851 830433. Mobile: 0774 711 7870.
- Lewis Off Road Discovery can arrange tours with a local Gaelic-speaking guide. Web site also includes info about sea angling and fresh water angling.
- Out And About Tours can offer personal guided tours of Harris & Lewis (half day, full day or longer), as well as 4-night walking and sightseeing packages with hotel accommodation for individuals and/or small groups. Contact Chris Ryan. Tel: 01851 612288
Self Led Tours:
Scotland Made Easy can plan a customised itinerary for a self-drive tour to suit your interests, budget and time available. Perhaps you would like to go island hopping? They will book you into recommended accommodation where you are assured of quality, comfort and hospitality - usually in 4 star B&Bs in Scottish homes. Optional 'specials' include a night in a castle, church, lighthouse, country mansion, etc.
Whether you have already decided which places you want to visit or if you haven't a clue where to start, Scotland Made Easy will advise and take care of all the planning for you. They are members of the Highlands of Scotland Tourist Board.Outdoor Activities:
- North-West Frontiers offer trips to the Highlands and Hebrides with various departure dates from May to September, enabling you to visit Harris & Lewis plus Skye and the Ullapool area. Ideal to get a real taste of the west coast.
They also have several trips concentrating exclusively on Harris.
These holidays have a choice of B&B or hotel accommodation (or arrange your own). Their experienced leaders will take you on moderate or intermediate walks along the coast and up in the hills, plus there's the opportunity to see the Callanish standing stones on Lewis. Other island trips feature the mountains of Skye, plus many destinations on the mainland.- Patrick Fox made his own tour of the Hebrides on his bicycle in July 1997 and has written up the whole story, complete with photos.
- C-N-Do Scotland organises 7-day guided walking holidays in the Hebrides, covering St Kilda, Harris, Lewis and the Uists.
- Wilderness Scotland offer a wide range of guided walking holidays, wilderness expeditions and historical journeys in Skye and the Western Isles, plus other areas of the Scottish Highlands.
Special self-guided walking or cycling holidays along the length of the Outer Hebrides, from the northern tip of the Isle of Lewis to the southern-most point on the Island of Barra. All transport, accommodation and bike hire are arranged for you, including optional luggage transfer.
Also combined sailing/walking holidays with accommodation and meals onboard a yacht. Can include St Kilda.- RIB trips are available from Sea Trek at Uig, Lewis (tel/fax: 01851 672 464). During the summer, there are regular morning and afternoon boat trips (2 hours each) to explore the local coastline and spot wildlife. Private hire also available including expeditions to offshore islands such as the Flannan Isles.
- If you wish to visit St Kilda from Lewis or visit other remote islands, then try the MV Cuma and Island Cruising. Most trips last 4 or 6 days.
- Northern Light offers private charter, wildlife cruises, bird-watching and whale-watching cruises, dive charter and island cruising with 2 boats from Oban. Trips to St Kilda and Outer Hebrides.
- Sea kayak trips with Adventure Hebrides operate from Lewis. They visit St Kilda and many other remote islands.
- Tim Pickering organises climbing and abseiling on the cliffs around the islands. For further details or contact him direct. Tel: 01851 820 726. Sgor is based at 20a Coll, Back, Isle of Lewis HS2 0JR.
- Based at Aird Uig, Western Isles Kite Company can offer power kiting, kite buggying, kite landboarding and kite surfing. Tuition and/or holidays. B&B available on site. Contact David Hepworth. Tel: 01851 672771.
- Hebridean Surf Holidays offer surf hire, tuition and transport if required.
- The Karting circuit at the Creed Enterprise Park (4 miles south of Stornoway) is open Monday - Friday from April - October (Saturdays only from November - March). Phone 01851 700 222 to check.
Travel Tips
Car hire is available from the following places on Lewis:
Arnol Motors, Arnol, Tel: 01851 710548 / 0800 328 5087 / Fax: 01851 710248.
Lewis Car Rentals, 52 Bayhead Street, Stornoway, Tel: 01851 703760 / Fax: 01851 705860
Mackinnon Self Drive, 18 Inaclete Road, Stornoway. Also has office at Stornoway Airport. Tel: 01851 702984 / Fax: 01851 705596
Stornoway Car Hire, Stornoway Airport, Tel: 01851 702658Bikes can be hired from Alex Dan's Cycle Centre in Kenneth Street, Stornoway (Tel: 01851 704025) and from Bike Hebrides at the The Old Casting Shed, Stornoway (Tel: 075 22 121 414).
There are several taxi services including ones operated by Central Cabs, 20 MacMillan Brae, Stornoway (tel: 01851 706 900) and Quick Car, 54 Newvalley, Stornoway (tel: 01851 701 234). Also try Stornoway Cabs (tel: 01851 702092). Islands tours are available.
There are lots of different bus routes on Lewis and Harris.
travelinescotland.com is the official public transport guide with online timetables and a journey planner.
For all local transport connections (rail, ferry, air, bus), the Highland Council publishes Travel Guides which are available to purchase for a small fee - public.transport@highland.gov.uk or Tel: 01463 702695.You can generally pick up free sheets with timetables for each local route from tourist offices in the Western Isles and at Stornoway bus station. Buses generally run in time with the ferries and there are less in winter than in summer.
The people of the Western Isles are well known for the warm welcome they give visitors. They will often go out of their way to help visitors. Many of the locals will pick up hitch-hikers.
Please note that the people of Lewis and Harris have strong religious beliefs and visitors should respect this during their stay. This means that Sunday is a day of rest for them and shops are usually closed. There is almost no public transport on Sundays (with the exception of the Leverburgh ferry and some Stornoway flights). The road signs are in Gaelic here and the language is still spoken by the islanders.
Annual Events 2008:
Many local events take place throughout the year including:
- mid April - Piping competion, Stornoway
- end May - Lewis half marathon
- early June: Lewis Mod
- 5 July: Uig gala day
- 5 - 12 July: Lewis golf week (tel 01851 702240)
- July: Sea angling championships, Stornoway
- July: The Stornoway Fish Festival (tel: 01851 871077 or contact the Fishermen's Mission).
- 14 - 19 July: Sail Hebrides Maritime Festival at Stornoway Harbour.
- 16 - 19 July Hebridean Celtic Festival with lots of music events
- 19 July - Lewis Highland Games
- 4 August: Lewis Carnival
Also see the calendar of events taking place at An Lanntair and talks by The Islands Book Trust.
A weather forecast for Stornoway is also provided by Yahoo.
My travellers' tips file may also be useful if you are planning a trip to Scotland. It covers airlines, national car hire, train information, maps, etc. Accommodation on Lewis is featured below.
What to see
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STORNOWAY
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In the pedestrianised part of the town centre, look out for the new library with its nice cafe and toilets. A health food shop is open opposite the Town Hall in Cromwell Street. Next door is the Stag Bakery (and tearoom). The town centre is now equipped with a Closed-Circuit TV system. Drinking alcohol in the streets is now illegal.
For a list of shops & restaurants in the main shopping streets of Stornoway, visit www.high.st/stornoway/The new arts centre on Kenneth Street is An Lanntair which features a theatre and cinema, restaurant, bar and art gallery. Internet access is available in the library.
The Baltic Bookshop at 8-10 Cromwell Street is an excellent place to visit if you want to buy local books, calendars and postcards. Also pop in to the Hebridean Jewellery shop on the main street (opposite the tourist office).
If you are interested in buying some tweed, look for the Lewis Loom Centre at 3 Bayhead in The Old Grainstore (overlooking the inner harbour).
The Stornoway Historical Society web site includes old photos of the town, features on the herring industry, churches and much more.
LEWS CASTLE (Stornoway)
This light brown, mock-Tudor folly was built in the 19th century by Sir James Matheson who purchased the island in 1844 with part of the fortune he accumulated from the opium trade in the Far East. The surrounding trees and greenery were planted in thousands of tons of soil that he had shipped over from the mainland. In 1924, only a few years after buying Lewis, Lord Leverhulme gifted the building back to the people of Stornoway.
During the Second World War, the castle was used as a naval hospital. Later it housed a technical college, but has remained empty since 1987.
Visitors are not allowed inside the castle, but are free to walk around the extensive grounds which feature over 100 species of tree. The Woodland Centre houses exhibitions, a tea room, gift shop and toilets. Open Monday - Saturday 10am - 5pm. Tel: 01851 706916. From the grounds, the view stretches across the harbour to the main part of town and the start of the Eye Peninsula. On top of Gallows Hill in the castle grounds, there's a chambered cairn which has been partly obscured by a modern cairn (map reference NB417323).
Guided walks in and around Stornoway and the Castle Grounds are operated by the Stornoway Trust Ranger Service (tel: 01851 705 042). Check with the tourist office to confirm details.
Set up in 2003, the Lews Castle Trust would like to see the castle put to good use and is seeking proposals.THE UI or EYE PENINSULA
Take the A866 east of Stornoway and explore this spur of land which juts out into the Minch. Six miles from Stornoway is Saint Columba's Church near Aignish. It is said that 19 chiefs of the Macleods of Lewis are buried here and one of them is commemorated on a carved gravestone now propped against the wall. Another carved slab which has Celtic designs is thought to be for his daughter. The church is believed to have been built on the site of a cell occupied by Saint Cartan in the 7th century.There is a touching story here surrounding the grave of Mary Mackenzie (Mairi Nighean Alisdair). When she passed away her husband William went to join his only remaining family who had all left for Canada but he died broken-hearted (actually of typhoid) within a year of landing in the New World and was buried in Mountain View Cemetery in Thunder Bay. Before leaving Lewis he pulled out one of his teeth and buried it with his wife so at least part of him remained there. William MacKenzie (1856 - 1908) became known as the Bard of Shader for his songs and poetry. A headstone here in the church cemetery at Aignish was dedicated in September 1998 in the presence of his grandson to mark the 90th anniversary of his death.
750 metres south of Garrabost is a chambered cairn (map reference NB 534330). South of there can be found a standing stone and yet further south Dun Bayble.
Driving towards Tiumpan Head you will pass Loch an Duin which has a causeway over to an island dun (map reference NB 516304).
The lighthouse at Tiumpan Head is now a cattery and dog kennels. H.M. the Queen and Prince Charles visited in the 1950s and the young prince got to sound the foghorn.
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B895 ROAD & BEACHES
There is a waymarked walk from Tolsta all the way across the moorland to Ness (10 miles / 16 km). You may not wish to walk all the way there and back (if you can't arrange transport at the other end), but it is worth walking a little way to see the 'Bridge to Nowhere'. This was Lord Leverhulme's idea for a road to connect Tolsa with Ness. The road was never built, but maybe one day the idea will be resurrected.
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Further along the clifftop, there is a late prehistoric/medieval dun (Caisteal a' Mhorair) on a rock stack (map reference NB 537496). Take the track leading north to the waterfall. Walk another kilometre north and you will see a fort (Dun Othail) and possible chapel on another rock stack (map reference NB 542514).
WEST LEWIS
For an excursion from Stornoway, you can explore the west coast of Lewis by heading across the moorland on the A857 to Barvas. From there you can either head north to Ness or south for Callanish, etc.
Heading north from Barvas to Ness
The Morvern Gallery features a variety of local crafts plus a cafe. Further along, Borgh Pottery at Borve is open Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 6pm.
Located to the west of the A857 near the village of Baile an Truseil is Clach an Truseil (map reference NB 375538) which is the tallest standing stone in Scotland ( at 5.7 metres high). Check out Robert Pollock's guide. Near here is the site of the last battle between the Macaulays and the Morrisons.
Just up the road, 850 metres along a track south-east of Siadar at map reference NB 396541 is what is thought to be a chambered cairn overlain by the foundations of a hall (3000 - 1500 BC). The site overlooks an island dun in Loch an Duin.
Heading up towards Ness, Dun Mara is an Iron Age fort on a promontory 1.5 miles north-west of Cros (map reference NB 495631).
The Ness Heritage Centre is in the village of Habost, after which you reach the Port of Ness with its attractive harbour and sandy beach.
Also visit the Harbour View Gallery (tel: 01851 810735) which features paintings by Anthony J Barber, and the Taigh Dhonnchaidh arts and music centre.
Also at Port of Ness, 10 Callicvol is a unique collections of maps, documents and photographs relating to the Hebrides, Highlands and Scottish Borders. The centre is open all year. Tel: 01851 810 681.
The centre is also home to Callicvol Quilts (closed Sundays & Mondays) and The Islands Book Trust which organises an interesting programme of local talks throughout the Hebrides.Take the road to the Butt of Lewis (the northernmost tip of the island) and you will pass St. Moluag's Church (which may date from early 16th century and was restored in 1912). It is 100 metres along a footpath north of the B8014 road (map reference NB 519652). At the end of the road you will reach the lighthouse (click for my photo) - do be careful near the cliff edges!
Dùn Èistean is an archaeological site on a sea stack located between the Butt of Lewis and the Port of Ness. Traditionally known as the stronghold of the Clan Morrison.
Heading south from Barvas towards Callanish
Make a stop at the Oiseval Gallery which features stunning photographs by James Smith. It is open Monday to Saturday from 10.30am to 5.30pm. Tel: 01851 840240. It is located at Brue (just south of Barvas).
ARNOL BLACK HOUSE (15 miles from Stornoway) - My Photo
Driving southwards from Barvas you will see the signs to this black house. This is one of the old croft dwellings which were built without so much as a window or even a chimney: the smoke from the open peat fire went directly through the thatched roof. Inside its double stone walls, filled with earth for insulation, lived both the family and their animals. Admission charge. Open Monday - Saturday (closes for lunch between 1pm and 2pm). Closed on Sundays.WHALEBONE ARCH
Formed by the jawbone of an 85-foot long blue whale that came ashore in 1920 with the harpoon still attached. Visible from the road.SOUTH BRAGAR DUN
After you have passed the whalebone arch in Bragar, continue south along the road. Shortly you will see the dun in a loch 80 metres east of the road. It can be accessed on foot by a causeway.SHAWBOST FOLK MUSEUM (19 miles from Stornoway)
Situated in an old church, it began as a school project in the 1970s and was never dismantled. It houses various artefacts from days gone by including farming tools, kitchen implements, irons, a loom, even a crofter's bedroom and photos of a Norse watermill which was restored. The door is sometimes closed - give it a good push and you will probably find that it's unlocked. If not, find the school caretaker to give you the key. No admission charge, but donations welcomed.
Also see the web site by The West Side Historical Society.SHAWBOST NORSE MILL AND KILN
These two small thatched buildings have been rebuilt to illustrate the process by which barley grain was processed into meal. After being dried in the kiln, the grain was put through the water-driven mill. This type of work went on in Lewis up until the 1940s. Open all year. Nearby Dalbeg beach is very picturesque.
Overlooking Loch Dalbeg, Aultbeithe is a luxury self catering cottage (sleeping 4) - new to the holiday market for summer 2008.GEARRANNAN BLACK HOUSE VILLAGE
Take a right turn at either Upper Carloway or Carloway. Drive to the very end of the road, park your car and you will see the village. Well worth a visit. In 1974 the last occupants of the black houses were moved to new accommodation nearby and the village was declared an Outstanding Conservation Area. Later the Gearrannan Trust was established to bring life back into the black houses. Today, the first house is the visitor centre with exhibition, shop and cafe. Tel: 01851 643416 Toilets available.
One of the other houses has been restored so that visitors can experience how it would have been to live there in 1955. Several of the other black houses are available to rent as self-catering holiday accommodation and one is a youth hostel operated by the Gatliffe Trust. If you walk down towards the bay, you will see a waymarked walk heading up the hillside to the right. This takes you over to the lovely beach of Dalmore and then on to Dalbeg. The very start of the walk passes by 2 of the old blackhouses which have been left as ruins. More info is available on the Gearrannan web site.The Blue Pig Studio run by Jane Harlington can be found at 11 Upper Carloway. In addition to her paintings, there are also jewellery, textiles and ceramics on sale. Open Monday - Saturday. Tel: 01851 643225. Her artwork on St Kilda is currently featured in an exhibition at Seallam! (Northton, Isle of Harris).
CARLOWAY BROCH (15 miles from Stornoway) - My Photos
An Iron Age round fortification some nine metres high in places. It's a short climb up the craggy hillside to the remains of the dry stone tower with its double walls and tiny entrance. As you enter the broch, look for the cavity on the right. It is thought that this was a guard cell where someone would have sat ready to pounce on any unwanted visitors. Once inside the broch itself, you can investigate some of the other cavities and see the staircase and ledge. You get a good view of the surrounding hills and the of the sea.The small visitor centre (open April to September, 10am to 5pm) includes a cleverly constructed exhibition recreating life in the interior of the broch - pass behind the curtain on the left when you enter the centre and be transported back in time. There is also a small shop featuring a new guide book, souvenirs and locally produced crafts. Admission is free, but donations for its maintenance are welcome. If you happen to visit during a busy time - there are toilets to the rear of the building as well as at the front to cut down on queues. Tel: 01851 643338.
The Hebridean Soap Company is run by Linda Sutherland and can be visited at 25 Breasclete (between Callanish and Carloway). Tel: 01851 621306.
CALLANISH STANDING STONES - My photos
Dating back over 4000 years, Callanish ranks second in terms of importance only to Stonehenge and is older. On a headland overlooking part of a huge sea loch, 53 pale grey stones of Lewisian gneiss stand in a curious cruciform. The heart is a central circle of 13 tall stones where excavations in the mid-19th century uncovered a chambered tomb reported to have contained human remains. From there four limbs run out in line with the cardinal points of the compass. Pointing northwards lie two parallel rows of stones which form an avenue of unknown significance. They stand on a small hill called 'Cnoc an Tursa' - 'Hill of Sorrow'. There is now a move towards calling Callanish by its Gaelic name - Calanais.Together with eleven smaller sites scattered over the surrounding moorland, the main circle (My photos) seems to have been an ancient astronomical observatory. Detailed calculations have shown alignments with the sun and moon at various times of the year which could have been used to predict eclipses and the coming of the seasons. Curiously, it appears to be situated just south of a sort of lunar "arctic circle" inside which the moon fails to rise above the horizon when it reaches its 19-yearly southern maximum. Robert Pollock has a very detailed guide concerning many of these sites.
There are two other stone circles which you can access near the main site. They are quite easily seen from the main road (A858) just south of the turn to the visitor centre. Cnoc Ceann (Callanish II) is 400 metres from the road (map reference NB 222326). Cnoc Fhillibhir Bheag (Callanish III) is 200 metres from Callanish II along a footpath. My photos. From here you can look up to the small hill on the skyline and see the silhouettes of the stones of the main Callanish site.
Also visit the Callanish photos on the Stones of Scotland site by Paola Arosio and Diego Meozzi.
Opened in June 1995, the excellent Calanais visitor centre includes an exhibition, a gift shop, toilets and a tearoom. The centre is open from 10am - 6pm Monday to Saturday in summer (April to September) and from 10am to 4pm Wednesday to Saturday in winter (October to March). Entry to the centre is free, but there is a small charge for admission to the exhibition. Tel: 01851 621422.
The standing stones themselves are always open (no entrance fee).With several published books between them, Gerald Ponting and Margaret Curtis are both well known experts on Callanish.
A scenic detour from the Callanish area
GREAT BERNERA
A bridge was built from Lewis to the small island of Great Bernera (Bearnaraigh or Bernera) after the locals threatened to detonate the hillside and make their own causeway. As you arrive on the island - look upwards to see a group of 4 standing stones on the cliff, known as Callanish VIII or Cleitir.The island's main township, Breacleit is home to a community centre which operates a cafe and museum (tel: 01851 612331), and provides sporting facilities for the school and local people. Toilet facilities available. Post office, mini market shop and fuel station.
Bernera-based Chris Ryan operates guided tours. There is a variety of accommodation on the island including Valasay holiday cottage.
For more info, visit the community web site: UigandBernera.com
| Located at Bosta on the northern end of Great Bernera is a network of 9 stone buildings all connected by tunnels. It is the most completely preserved late-Iron Age village ever found in this country. A replica has been made of one of the houses so you can see how it would have been (open to visitors with a guide from 12 noon - 4pm, Monday - Friday). The importance of the site was only discovered in March 1996. As you approach the beach from the road, you will see the local cemetery on your left - the site is to the left of the cemetery I believe. Information is available at the community centre in Breacleit. Toilets are available at Bosta beach. Photos. |
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UIG SANDS AND OTHER BEACHES
After visiting the island of Bernera, continue along the B8011 road heading further south and west. Here you will reach some spectacular beaches - Uig sands are well known, but don't forget to explore the others too, especially Traigh na Berie which is pictured below.Look out for the Uig Community & Heritage Centre at Crowlista (tel: 01851 672456). The museum includes many interesting local archaeological finds and geneaological information, and there is also a community-run cafe.
Lochcroistean Guest Centre is a new coffee shop in the old school (tel: 01851 672 772)
Bonaventure Restaurant at the old clifftop military base on the road to Uig sands is open Tuesday - Saturday (tel: 01851 672474).
Gisla Woodcraft sells unique gifts - their shop at Uig (by the shores of Kinlochroag) is open from April to September. Tel: 01851 672 371.
For more local info, visit UigandBernera.comVIKING FORT AND CEMETERY
The remains of this Viking fort were discovered in June/July 1996 by archaeologists from Edinburgh University on the headland at Crowlista near Uig Sands. Newspaper reports speak of paths, floors, rectangular walls and pottery being found. Several years ago, a Viking cemetery was uncovered six miles away at Valtos.LEWIS CHESS PIECES
In 1831 a crofter found these chess pieces at Ardroil near Uig Sands (a beautiful beach west of Callanish). Experts determined that they were made of walrus ivory and date from the Viking occupation of the island. Today they are sometimes displayed in the museum in Stornoway. Reproductions are available in several local craft shops.A CD-ROM can be purchased from the National Museums of Scotland. Produced in both Gaelic and English, this CD-ROM includes a complete catalogue of all 90+ pieces (each photographed in b/w from 4 sides), plus sound files of local stories relating to their discovery, information on Chess and other board games of the time, as well as details of the use of walrus ivory and decorative patterns found on other objects.
ANCIENT NUNS' HABITATION
The road south from Uig sands ends at Mealasta where there are the remains of a medieval settlement, thought to have been a Benedictine nunnery (Tigh nan Cailleachan Dubha or House of the Black Women). Map reference NA 991241.The Lochs / Pairc area
Some 16 miles south of Stornoway on the road to Tarbert (Harris) is the Land Raiders Monument - a cairn recently erected to commemorate the Pairc deer raid in 1887 when local crofters tried to kill some of the laird's deer and occupy part of his land in order to draw attention to the injustices and hardships they faced.
Near here is a road leading eastwards into the Lochs / Pairc area. The first settlement is Kershader where you will see the Ravenspoint centre (tearoom, sweaters for sale, groceries). Not open on Sundays. Toilets (open all the time) are available to the rear of the main building. The building also contains a hostel (telephone: 01851 880236). For those without transport, this is a 6 mile walk from the main Tarbert/Stornoway road. Minibus hire is available from the centre. A take-away food service operates on Friday nights from 5-7pm.
In the Old School at Gravir, the local Historical Society has an exhibition which is open Monday - Friday 2pm - 5pm and Saturday11am - 4pm (summer time only).
The landscape of this area inspired Arthur Ransome for the setting of his book 'Great Northern' (the story of children protecting eggs of the great northern diver). There are several roads to explore and the one to Lemreway has great views of the Shiant islands on a clear day.
There are 2 sites of archaeological interest in this area. The ruins of Dun Cromor can be seen in a small loch at Cromor. The narrow causeway is still visible under the water. It is thought that it had an access stairway of 17 steps and an upper gallery.
Nearby a track to the west leads to a causeway from Crobeg to the island where you can visit the ruins of Saint Columba's Church (depending on the tides). Map reference NB 385210. It was mentioned in 1549 as the main place of worship for the Lochs area and there may have been a monastery here. Burials only ceased here in 1878. On the same island are the ruins of a house thought to have belonged to a Mr. Mackenzie who was the first factor employed by the Earl of Seaforth (who acquired Lewis in 1610).
Back on the main A859 road between Tarbert and Stornoway, by the Land Raiders monument is another road heading eastwards. This smaller road leads to the remains of a stone circle which has been partly incorporated into a dwelling of the Laird of Seaforth. This site is located on the shore of Loch Seaforth 500 metres along a track from the road (map reference NB 278166).
If you intend to go hiking, particularly in the hills, you will need the scale of maps provided by the Landranger series. Harris and Lewis are covered by several slightly overlapping maps in this series, all produced by the Ordnance Survey which is the official map agency of the UK: Tarbert & Loch Seaforth - West Lewis & North Harris - Stornoway & North Lewis.
If you are looking for Hebridean genealogy research material or historical books, visit the web site for Bill Lawson Publications (specialist in Hebridean family tree research).
The Islands Book Trust has numerous publications about the Hebridean islands.
Wordcatcher Publications produce books and greetings cards from Lewis. Books include Poetic Tales from the Isle of Lewis - Poetic Tales from St. Kilda - Poetic Tales from the Isle of Skye. Greetings cards feature local photos and a story or poem.
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Lewis and Harris
Lovely colour guide book (second edition published in 2007) with over 100 pages of photos. Written by Francis Thompson, covering the local heritage and culture of the islands, nature, the landscape, place names, history, crofting, Gaelic, places to visit, etc. Even if you don't get chance to buy it before you go, you will certainly want a copy for a souvenir when you have visited! Available from Amazon.co.uk |
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Riddoch on the Outer Hebrides
BBC radio presenter Lesley Riddoch cycled from Barra to the Butt of Lewis talking to local people along the way. The result is a unique insight into 21st century life in these islands faced with cultural and economic change. 'Provocative and inspired' (Stornoway Gazette review). Paperback with colour photos. 182 pages. Published July 2007. Available from Amazon.co.uk |
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Tales and Traditions of the Lews
Much in demand for many years, this is the first new edition of Tales and Traditions of the Lews since 1967. A marvellous pot pourri of local history, myth and legend, it brings alive the island of Lewis in a way few other histories can. With over 60 short essays on people, places and tradition, it reveals the full range of the author's erudition from prehistoric times to the present day, and is informed by his love and deep knowledge of the island from which he came. Paperback. 292 pages. Published May 2000. Available from Amazon.co.uk |
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Lewis: A History of the Island
The island's history stretches back to the time of the Norse invaders and before. Over the centuries, Lewis has seen a succession of powerful landlords come and go, and this ground-breaking book recounts the long-fought struggle over the land. It also describes many aspects of the islanders' way of life over the years - agriculture and fishing, education in Gaelic and English, the Church and the people, law and order and smuggling, emigration and the armed services are just some of the topics included in this wide-ranging survey. Available from Amazon.co.uk |
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Metagama: a Journey from Lewis to the New World
In 1923 the first of 3 Canadian liners arrived in Stornoway. Their mission, with the connivance of government officials, was to remove landless islanders, many of which were war veterans, rather than give them a plot of land. On an island still reeling from the Iolaire disaster, the removal of so many young families was to be yet another blow. Even at the time the importance of the occasion was realised. A huge crowd had gathered on the quayside to say farewell amidst Gaelic psalm singing and the strains of a pipe band. Many of those who went were never to see their families again. For the island of Lewis the departure of the Metagama was hugely symbolic. As author Jim Wilkie shows it was also the continuation of clearance by another means and a method of diverting attention from government failure and neglect. 206 pages. Published in June 2001. Available from Amazon.com or Amazon.co.uk |
Click here for more books about the Hebrides....
and also Scottish books
Monica Weller sells high quality postcards & posters of her photos of St Kilda plus other Hebridean snapshots. She also sells a photo book of St Kilda. |
Contact Ian Fordham
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Broad Bay House
New beachside luxury 5 Star Guest House.
Choice of 4 spacious bedrooms (double/twin).
Lounge / dining room with oak flooring,
Facilities include guest laundry/drying room,
B&B prices from £64.50 per person (2 sharing).
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Alasdair and Lisa Maclean
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Crowberry
Friendly new guest house with a very warm welcome.
Choice of 4 individually styled bedrooms:
Lounge with Sky TV, DVD player and Playstation.
Breakfast in the garden room overlooking the bay.
B&B prices from £35 - £45 per person.
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Self Catering |
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Contact: Mrs Lesley Wiseman
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Aultbeithe
Luxury self-catering cottage sleeping 4.
Available for bookings from mid-June 2008.
2 bedrooms with loch views
Prices from £695 - £995 per week.
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Contact Mrs Anne Ryan
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Valasay
Semi-detached croft house on the island of Great Bernera
The house is situated close to a Marine Special Area for Conservation
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Stars.
Rental prices from £470 per week
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Contact Finlay & Rachel Macdonald
Loch Roag Cottages
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Loch Roag Cottages
Situated in a beautiful glen at the mouth of Kinlochroag
Accessed by a private road.
Hawthorn Cottage
2 bedrooms (1 double, 1 twin), large shower room/toilet.
Rental prices from £280 - £400 per week
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Booking Hotline: 0870 336 2827 |
Hollyburn
Bungalow at Crulivig on the west coast of Lewis
3 bedrooms (1 double & 2 twin) & bathroom.
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There is a wide range of hotels, B&B and self-catering accommodation available on Harris and Lewis. The ones listed in the tourist brochure are given on the official Western Isles Tourist Board web site.
B&B accommodation:
- Braighe House is a 4 star guest house with 3 bedrooms (single, double, twin). Situated 4 miles out of Stornoway, with sea views. Tel: 01851 705287.
- Carnan Beag at 9 Lower Sandwick, Isle of Lewis HS2 0AE, is 1 mile from the ferry terminal, and 2 miles from the airport. Overlooking Sandwick Bay and the approach to Stornoway harbour, with views over to Lews Castle grounds. Ensuite rooms (single, double, twin) all on the ground floor and each with electric blanket, hospitality tray, TV, hairdryer. Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star B&B. Contact Pat Grant. Tel: 01851 704726.
- Galson Farm Guest House at South Galson (Tel/fax: 01851 850492) is well recommended for B&B and food. Non-residents can have a 4 or 5 course dinner here if you book in advance.
- Jannel is a 3 star B&B in Stornoway with 4 ensuite bedrooms. FairTrade, organic or local produce is used wherever possible. Situated only 5 minutes’ drive from Stornoway Airport. Tel: 01851 700100.
Self catering:
- Clach na Cuthaig at 12 Gravir, South Lochs is a traditional croft house with 3 bedrooms sleeping up to 7 people.
- Dalbeg Cottage sleeps 3 people (2 bedrooms) and is only 2 minutes walk from the sandy beach at Dalbeg on the west side of Lewis.
- Dalmore Holidays offers self catering accommodation in a 2 bedroom bungalow with 1 double bedroom, 1 family bedroom, kitchen, sitting room and bathroom. Situated on the west coast near sandy beaches, Carloway and Callanish.
- Gearrannan offers a choice of self-catering accommodation in 4 renovated black houses at near Carloway on the west coast of Lewis. One property is ideal for groups (sleeps 16). The other 3 properties sleep 2 - 5.
- Hebridean Cottages offer a choice of 4 star chalets near Loch Branahuie, 4 miles from Stornoway.
- Hebrides Self Catering offers a choice of 3 and 4 star properties with 2, 3 and 4 bedrooms near Stornoway.
- Riof Ocean Cottage - luxurious 4 star self catering on the shore of Loch Roag in the Uig district of scenic west Lewis. Sleeps 4 in bedrooms.
- Shiant View offers 4 star accommodation with 2 bedrooms. Situated on the south east coast of Lewis overlooking Loch Shell, the Shiant Isles and across the Minch.
Hostels:
- Heb Hostel at 25 Kenneth Street, Stornoway has 4 dormitory style rooms sleeping 4-8 persons. Fully equipped self-catering kitchen, laundry facilities, lounge with peat fire, Internet access and TV, garden, secure cycle shed. Cost: 15 pounds includes bed linen and self-service continental breakfast. Tel: 01851 709889.
- The Kershader Hostel is located in a modernised former school on the south side of Loch Erisort, 6 miles from the main Tarbert to Stornoway road. Turn off just south of Ballalan. Operated by the local community co-operative, the building also contains a cafe and knitwear shop. 14 beds, open all year. Telephone: 01851 880236.
- The Galson Farm Bunkhouse at South Galson (Ness) is on a coastal road 10 miles from the Butt of Lewis. Open all day, all year. Sleeps 8. Cost: 9 pounds. Tel/fax: 01851 850 492.
- Gatliffe Trust hostel at Garenin near Carloway. National Grid Ref: NB193442 (OS Sheet No. 8). Open all year. 14 beds.
Camping:
- Eilean Fraoich Camp Site at North Shawbost is an acre of ground near the local museum. Cooking facilities, laundry, showers, electric hook-up points, etc. Tents, caravans and motorhomes welcome. Tel: 01851 710504.
- Laxdale Holiday Park is 2.5 acres of ground with space for 43 pitches. Located 1.5 miles from Stornoway. Tents, caravans and motorhomes welcome. Also bunkhouse with 4 rooms each with 4 bunks. Tel: 01851 706 966 or 01851 703 234.
Where to eat
There are lots of places to eat in Stornoway including chip shops, a pizza place, a tapas bar, plus various cafes and restaurants.
For nice snacks, try the cafe at the library, the Woodlands Centre in the castle grounds, and the restaurant / cafe bar in the arts centre (An Lanntair).
There's a Chinese takeaway in Cromwell Street, Peking Cuisine in Church Street, an Indian Balti House in Beach Street and the Thai Cafe in Church Street.
The Digby Chick Restaurant on Bank Street is popular.
The Park Guest House at 30 James Street has a well recommended restaurant (tel: 01851 702485)
The hotels serve meals too, but please remember that not everywhere is open on Sundays. Hotel restaurants which are open on Sundays include the HS-1 Cafe Bar in the Royal Hotel, the Eleven Restaurant in the Caladh Inn, and the Manor Restaurant at the Cabarfeidh Hotel.For something very different and further afield, check out the Bonaventure Restaurant. It is the most remote restaurant in Britain! Located on a clifftop, 38 miles from Stornoway on the road to Uig sands. Open for lunch Wednesday - Saturday 12noon - 2pm. Open for dinner Tuesday - Saturday from 7pm (last orders taken at 9pm). Advance booking recommended (particularly in winter). Usually closed November and February. B&B accommodation also available. Tel / Fax 01851 672474.
If you're on the west coast of Lewis, also try the Gearrannan Blackhouse Village which has a cafe and restaurant (closed Sundays).
Tourist Information Centres
26 Cromwell Street - Stornoway - Isle of Lewis HS1 2DD
Telephone: 01851 703088 / Fax: 01851 705244
Open all year.
Pier Road - Tarbert - Isle of Harris
Telephone: 01859 502011
Open Easter to October only.
Click here to request the Western Isles official tourist brochure
Pages on the islands:
Isle of Harris
- Great Bernera
- St Kilda
- Isle of Skye
Uist Introduction - Uist Travel Tips
South Uist - Benbecula
- Isle of Barra
Links to External sites:
www.VisitHebrides.com (official tourist board web site)
Access Lewis - guide to disabled friendly facilities and access for prams, etc.
Western Isles Wildlife (sightings, photos and guided tours)
Bill Lawson's Genealogy Centre
Media:
An archived copy of the former Virtual Hebrides site
Outer Hebrides Food Trail
Western Isles web site directory
Photos:
Artwork / Paintings:
Gifts & Crafts:
Travel Tales:
CultureHebrides.com
- RootsHebrides.com
- FilmHebrides.com
for books and family tree research in the Western Isles.
Hebridean Connections - Isle of Lewis historic records and genealogy
The Islands Book Trust (local books, archives, lectures, conferences)
Stornoway Gazette (local newspaper)
HEB magazine & pictorial
Isles FM (Western Isles local radio station)
Smoked Salmon - mail order suppliers of Atlantic smoked salmon products from the Isle of Lewis
isle-of-lewis.com including panoramic photos
James Smith - gallery and photos
Hebridean Imaging
Islands of Inspiration - photos by Iain Mackenzie
John MacLean Photography
Charles Tait - photos/postcards/calendars
Photos of the Hebrides by Colin Palmer - includes Harris, Lewis, Berneray, Scarp, St Kilda
Photos of the Hebrides by Jörg Müller
Ivor MacKay
Square Art
Helen Suzanne Alexander
Gisla Woodcraft
Tweed Delights - Harris Tweed gifts handcrafted by
Alison Macdonald on Lewis
Scotia Ceramics - Coll Pottery, Back, Isle of Lewis
Mearnscraft cross stitch kits of Scottish maps including Lewis & Harris
Grinnabhat Crystal & Glass Engraving Studio
Patrick Fox's bicycle tour
Richard & Brenda Jones' tour by Isetta car
My own 14-week trip journal around the
Highlands and Islands - click here.
OutdoorHebrides.com
- WalkHebrides.com
- GolfHebrides.com
- CycleHebrides.com
- FishHebrides.com
- WildlifeHebrides.com
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Index
Contact
The Internet Guide to Scotland is produced
by Joanne Mackenzie-Winters © 1996-2008
Not to be reproduced without permission
www.scotland-info.co.uk and www.scotland-inverness.co.uk
Disclaimer
Last update: May 2008