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The Internet Guide to Scotland

Travellers' Tale
kindly sent in by
Elena Denevan Yoter

from Alaska who visited Scotland in June 1997

I've been home from my trip for over a week now. I had a wonderful time even though the weather was gray. I kept reminding myself that it added atmosphere. I made the train/bus connection from Chester to Skye in one day by going through Edinburgh. I had wanted to go by way of Mallaig on the way up but was never able to get reliable bus information from Armadale to Portree. I guess that those busses are more frequent later in June than the 12th. I got to my first B&B about 10pm. Mrs. MacDonald and her husband Murdo picked myself and another woman traveler up at the bus stop in town and drove us the short distance to their house where they made tea for the weary travelers. They don't have a view but the rooms were very comfortable and warm. They are right next to a woollen mill and about a 5-10 minute walk from the center of town. The cost was 16 pounds and I would stay there again. That's Mrs. Elizabeth MacDonald, 25 Urquhart Place, Portree, Skye. (Open from April to October - telephone: +44 1478 612374 - 1 single, 1 double, 1 twin.)

I managed to get to Dunvegan Castle on a bus and thoroughly enjoyed that even in the rain. I did find the drawbacks to relying on public transportation. The major problem was that I was unable to stop at an interesting site if I wanted and next was having to stick to the bus schedule and be somewhere before I was ready. The flip side is that I was not ready to rent a car and deal with the other side of the car/road stuff. I think on my next visit I would be. Riding trains and busses did allow me to meet some very nice people, both local and touring. I found myself in one conversation with a woman from New Zealand and one from Aberdeen. We had great fun with the fact that English was a native language to us all and we spoke it so differently yet could understand one another.

After Skye I went to Inverness. I was most impressed with this B&B. I took a city bus to Culloden Battlefield and Mrs. Phyliss Alexander picked me up there and drove me to her small farm 1/2 mile further from town. Once again I was given tea and welcomed into a warm, comfortable home. I caught a ride with her grown children back to town for dinner and music. I enjoyed that city very much. I got a cab for about 4 pounds for the 9 mile ride to the farm. The driver taught me, or tried, to say "och aye". In the morning Mrs. Alexander drove me to the train station. She was very accomodating and because of that I was able to see a beautiful area. One morning I walked about 5 minutes to 3 cairns (Clava I think). Mrs. Phyliss Alexander, Balaggan Farm on Culloden Moor, 16 pounds. (Telephone: +44 1463 790213 - twin room and a room for a family available).

In Edinburgh I booked through an accomodation service. I stayed at Leamington Guest House at 57 Leamington Terrace, 26 pounds including the reservation fee. It was a 5 pound taxi ride from the train station and a 15-20 minute walk trough the city to areas like Lawnmarket and Cowgate where I found restaurants and music. It's funny that every time I asked about traditional music I was directed to an Irish pub with electric music. I was told that I might have had better luck with a Scottish Evening type of show. This guest house was pretty much central for the price, comfortable and clean. If I was adventurous I might try another and if not I would defintely return.

Overall, I was very pleased with those blind choices that I had made. There was much that I misssed but I felt fortunate to see what I did in such a short time. You were right when you told me that I would plan to return to Scotland. Now I am truly hooked.


Copyright Elena Denevan Yoter - July 1997
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Last update: September 2001