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Isle of Harris
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 Luskentyre and the hills of North Harris |
Harris is a beautiful island of contrasts with spectacular scenery and a unique unspoilt atmosphere. In the west are vast expanses of white sand whilst the north and east are rugged, rocky places which make you think you have reached the moon. There are very few trees so look out for those in Tarbert, Borve, Horgabost and Luskentyre and make the most of them. In the Bays area, the lunar landscape is indented with hundreds of little lochs and on a clear day you can see over to the Isle of Skye.
Here in the Western Isles (formerly known as the Outer Hebrides) the landscape and history of Harris, together with the hospitality of its people provide a wonderful escape from the pressures of modern life. With luck you may even see otters, seals, eagles or dolphins. Deer tend to keep to the high ground during the summer, but sometimes you can see them near Ardhasaig and Ardvoulie along the main road from Tarbert to Stornoway. In the summer months there are many colourful wild flowers to be seen on the machair. My grandmother was born here in Tarbert, so for me it is a very special place.
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To enjoy Harris and neighbouring Lewis at the nice slow pace they deserve, you really need at least 4 days. After that you will have fallen in love with the islands and will probably want to return for a week or more on your next visit! Combined with the islands of the Uists and Barra to the south, you could easily spend 2 weeks here and still not want to go home. |
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You can often see what look like patterns on the hillsides of Harris. These are the so-called Lazy Beds (and yet life was hard!) where the crofters used to grow potatoes and a few vegetables. They managed to cut strips of land between the rocks and fertilise what little soil there was with enough seaweed to provide them with a bit of something to put with the fish they caught. Today you will still see them cutting peat for fuel.
The famous Harris tweed is made all over both Harris and Lewis. It can be bought in many of the islands' shops and also direct from the weavers (at Luskentyre for example or Plocrapool). Genuine Harris tweed bears the orb symbol, the mark of the Harris Tweed Association. The wool is Scottish in origin (often from the islands, although not always), but for it to be classed as Harris Tweed, it must be spun, dyed, finished and woven in the Hebrides.
How to get to Harris
Main vehicle ferry:
During the summer, a ferry runs from Uig on the Isle of Skye to Tarbert, the main village on Harris, twice a day except on Sundays. There are fewer sailings in winter. It takes 1 hour 35 minutes to cross the Minch. Vehicle reservation required. Look out for dolphins. You will see the Shiant Isles.
The official Caledonian Macbrayne web site lists the current timetables in detail.Although treated as two separate islands with distinct characteristics, Harris and Lewis form a single landmass. This means you can drive from one to the other. The main road between Stornoway (Lewis) and Tarbert (Harris) is 37 miles which takes about an hour by car or bus. See How to get to Lewis by air and ferry.
Vehicle ferry between Harris and North Uist / Berneray:
A ferry sails from Leverburgh on the southern coast of Harris across to the island of Berneray which is now joined by a causeway to North Uist. Numerous trips a day during the summer, but less in winter (October to Easter). Journey time: 1 hour. Capacity: 200 passengers, 32 vehicles.
The official Caledonian Macbrayne web site lists the current timetables in detail.Buses:
There are lots of different bus routes on Harris and Lewis. Visit the local council web site for the bus timetables.
You can generally pick up free sheets with timetables for each local route from the tourist office. Buses generally run in time with the ferries and there are less in winter than in summer.Tours:
On Saturdays between end May and early September, you can book a combined ferry and coach tour which is the ideal way to see the islands if you only have the day and don't want the expense of taking over your own vehicle from the isle of Skye. The coach meets the morning ferry from Uig (Skye) at Tarbert then takes you over the mountains of Harris and up on a circular tour of Lewis (including Callanish, Carloway Broch and Stornoway) and brings you back to Tarbert in time for the 8pm ferry which arrives back on Skye at 9.40pm.
On Sundays during the summer, combined coach and ferry tours operate from Uig to enable you to visit North Uist and the Isle of Harris via Lochmaddy, Berneray, Leverburgh and Tarbert.
There is also a day tour of Lewis possible via the ferry from Ullapool.
Contact Caledonian Macbrayne to check ferry times and prices.Outdoor Activities:
- Mike Briggs offers a professional hill walking guide service for visitors to Harris. Tel: 01859 502376.
- North-West Frontiers offer trips to the Highlands and Hebrides with various departure dates from May to September, enabling you to visit Harris & Lewis plus Skye and the Ullapool area. Ideal to get a real taste of the west coast.
They also have trips concentrating exclusively on Harris.- Wilderness Scotland offer a wide range of guided walking holidays, wilderness expeditions and historical journeys in Skye and the Western Isles, plus other areas of the Scottish Highlands.
Special self-guided walking or cycling holidays along the length of the Outer Hebrides, from the northern tip of the Isle of Lewis to the southern-most point on the Island of Barra. All transport, accommodation and bike hire are arranged for you, including optional luggage transfer.
Also combined sailing/walking holidays with accommodation and meals onboard a yacht. Can include St Kilda.- Tim Pickering organises climbing and abseiling on the cliffs around the islands. For further details or contact him direct. Tel: 01851 820 726. Sgor is based at 20a Coll, Back, Isle of Lewis HS2 0JR.
- C-N-Do Scotland organises 7-day guided walking holidays in the Hebrides, covering Harris, Lewis and the Uists.
Boat Trips:
- Kilda Cruises depart from Leverburgh and allow you to visit St Kilda in a day (weather permitting). Trips to the Shiant Isles, Flannan Isles, Rona, Monach Isles are also possible. Booking essential. Contact Angus Campbell. Tel: 01859 502060 / Mobile 07760 281804
- Sea Harris - daily trips from Harris all year to St Kilda or the Shiant Isles (weather permitting). Cruises to Pabbay, Taransay, Scarp and Flannan Isles also possible. Booking is essential. Contact Seumas Morrison. Tel: 01859 502007 / Mobile: 07760 216555.
- Scenic Cruises offer coastal mini-cruises for families or small groups of up to 6 people along the east coast of Harris. The trips are individually arranged to suit your group. The MV Lady Catherine operates from Flodabay with Skipper/Owner, Hamish Taylor. Tel: 01859 530310 / Mobile: 07788 500 302.
- Sound Water Sports has a RIB for boat trips, rubber tubing, water skiing, fishing, charters, etc. Based in Leverburgh. Contact Neil MacLean. Tel: 07979621293.
- Northern Light offers private charter, wildlife cruises, bird-watching and whale-watching cruises, dive charter, island cruising and research and survey services. 2 boats based in Oban. Tel: 01680 814260. Includes trips to St Kilda.
Boat trips and kayaking are also available on Lewis.
Tour Guides:
- Based on Lewis, Albannach Guided Tours can offer private tours and tour planning (including accommodation) throughout the Hebrides, Scotland and other Celtic countries. Les McInulty is a 'Blue Badge' Gaelic-speaking driver-guide available for hire from 1 hour to 2 weeks. Either for private car, minibus, coach or for guided walks. Lewis & Harris taxi service available. Specialises in day trips to places on the islands which are not accessible by public transport. Tel/Fax: 01851 830433. Mobile: 0774 711 7870.
- Out And About Tours can offer personal guided tours of Harris & Lewis (half day, full day or longer), as well as 4-night walking and sightseeing packages with hotel accommodation for individuals and/or small groups. Contact Chris Ryan. Tel: 01851 612288.
Travellers' Tips
Petrol (gasoline) is available Monday to Saturday only at Tarbert (from the garage at the back of the Harris Hotel), at Ardhasaig (just a couple of miles north of there) and at Leverburgh. Petrol is also available on Lewis at Stornoway.Bike hire is available from Ardhasaig Filling Station and Stores (tel: 01859 502066) just north of Tarbert, and at Sorrel Cottage B&B (tel: 01859 520319) 1.5 miles from the ferry point in Leverburgh.
The people of the Western Isles are well known for the warm welcome they give visitors. They will often go out of their way to help visitors. Many of the locals will pick up hitch-hikers.
Please note that the people of Lewis and Harris have strong religious beliefs and visitors should respect this during their stay. This means that Sunday is a day of rest for them and shops are usually closed. There is almost no public transport on Sundays (with the exception of the Leverburgh ferry and some Stornoway flights). The road signs are in Gaelic here and the language is still spoken by the islanders.
Events
Local events include the Harris Mod (early June), Harris half marathon (July), South Harris Agricultural Show at Leverburgh (late July), Harris Arts Festival (July and August), plus other festivals too. Check the exact dates with the tourist office - telephone: 01851 703088 / fax: 01851 705244.
Maps
For detailed and searchable maps, visit Streetmap.co.uk and UK Multimap.comMy travellers' tips file may also be useful if you are planning a trip to Scotland. It covers airlines, national car hire, train information, accommodation web sites, etc. Accommodation on Harris is featured below.
TARBERT
With a population of around 500, Tarbert is the capital of Harris. The village only dates back to 1779 when it was established as a fishing settlement. Gradually it took over from Rodel which had always been the historical capital of Harris.
Here you will find a branch of the Bank of Scotland, two grocery stores, post office, tourist information centre, hairdressers, 2 hotels with bars, and a filling station. One of the island's Asian families runs a shop in the main street which sells clothes, shoes, gifts, toiletries, household goods and just about everything you can think of. Mobile shops selling bakery products, fish and groceries tour the island and make regular stops in Tarbert. A mobile Royal Bank of Scotland also visits the village and other parts of Harris.
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On Main Street, there are several crafts shops including 'Islands', Castaway Crafts and the Harris Tweed Shop sells an excellent selection of souvenirs, handmade clothing, postcards, prints, CDs, books and videos. In the downstairs section of this blue-painted building, you can get snacks and hot drinks - and sit outside or inside. Open 9am - 5.30pm. Closed Sundays. At the top of the road leading down to the tourist office and pier, look out for Tinderbox (pictured here) which has a good range of unusual local crafts, prints and cards. |
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Opposite there is First Fruits Tearoom. It is usually open Monday to Saturday 10.30 am - 4.30pm from April - September. Tel: 01859 50 24 39 / 50 24 69. Evening meals available from 7pm in summer time.
For lunch and dinner, you have a choice of the Harris Hotel (table reservation is advisable for the restaurant), the Harris Inn (adjacent to the hotel) which serves bar meals.
The Macleod Motel by the pier is currently undergoing extensive refurbishment and will re-open in August 2008 as the Hotel Hebrides when it will offer good food and accommodation.
There's also the take-away shop called Big D's in Main Street.On Wednesdays at 8.30pm from May to September, the Harris Hotel is the venue for a series of highly entertaining and informative talks and slides by local expert Bill Lawson. Hear stories of Harris, Taransay, Scarp and St Kilda, and enjoy listening to Gaelic songs performed by locals.
Tarbert has a new leisure complex including swimming pool, children's pool, spa, sauna and fitness suite.
'Harris Tweed Isle-of-Harris' has a new shop offering lengths of tweed to buy and gifts.
Black Lab Photos has a photo gallery and workshop open all year Monday - Saturday, 10am till late. Located at West Loch House in West Tarbert (on the road to Stornoway). Contact John Macleod - tel: 01859 502433.
Public telephones can be found in various locations: where vehicles queue for the ferry, opposite the post office and near the school. Public toilets, luggage lockers and a cash machine (ATM) are available in the tourist information centre building near the pier.
Buses run from the car park here to other parts of Harris and up to Stornoway on Lewis. On certain days, guided coach tours are made to Lewis and also South Harris - contact Hebridean Transport (tel: 01851 705050) or ask at the tourist office.
North-West Harris A day or half-day excursion can be made by heading out of Tarbert on the main road to Stornoway. After 3 miles, you will reach Ardhasaig with its combined grocers and petrol station. Down on the lochside is The White Cottage which can be rented as self catering accommodation.
Near here the B887 road branches off to the west. This narrow road twists and turns up and down through the hills along a very scenic route. Here are the three main sights:BUNAVONEADAR
Here stand the remains of the old whaling station which was built by the Norwegians in the early part of the 20th century. Closed during the First World War, it re-opened afterwards and was bought by Lord Leverhulme 1922. One of his ideas was to turn whale meat into sausages for people in Africa, but this scheme (like most of his others) was a failure. By 1925 Leverhulme was dead and a few years later the whaling station was abandoned. In 1950 it was taken over by another Norwegian who operated it for two years before it was finally closed down. Today its huge chimney stands as a reminder of more prosperous times and there is now talk that it might be turned into a visitors' attraction to explain the history of whaling in the islands. The station was mentioned by 'Peter Pan' author Sir James Barrie in the play 'Mary Rose' that he wrote in 1920 whilst staying at Amhuinnsuidhe Castle. My great-uncle, Captain Henry MacKenzie, used to tow the whale catching boats with his ocean-going tug 'Forager'.Not far from here the island's only tennis court (built in 1998) sits on a base of 2,000 tons of rock taken from Clisham. Quite a unique location!
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AMHUINNSUIDHE CASTLE - Link to my photos
(pronounced 'avin-suey')
The road runs past the front door, so you can't miss it, but unfortunately you
can't stop to admire the view because of the 'No parking' sign.
However there is nothing to stop you parking your car before you reach the gates and having a stroll down the road. It is not open to the public but offers accommodation mainly for fishing and shooting on the estate. Please respect the owners' privacy.
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Built by the Earl of Dunmore in 1868, it was recently owned by the Bulmer family of cider fame until its purchase by Ian Scarr-Hall in 2003 as part of a joint bid with the islanders who now own the North Harris estate.
Visit the official web site: amhuinnsuidhe.com
When owned by the Bulmers, the chef Rosemary Shrager (famous through the TV series 'Castle Cook') held cookery courses here.HUSHINISH BAY AND THE ISLE OF SCARP - My photo
Hushinish is a beautiful beach at the end of the B887 road. Park by the toilets and walk over the grass and machair on the right of the road to view the tiny island of Scarp. Scarp was the site of an odd experiment designed by German Gerhardt Zucher to persuade the British Government that mail and medical supplies could be transported to remote islands by rocket. On Saturday 28 July 1934 he sent 4800 letters at 1000 miles per hour in one of his rockets from Scarp to Hushinish, only to have the whole lot explode and scatter all over the shore. Three days later he made another unsuccessful attempt at the experiment from the grounds of Amhuinnsuidhe, then gave up. Needless to say, his idea was not pursued.
Small deposits of asbestos were once found on Scarp. There is a great coastal walk from Hushinish which will lead you to some of the bird colonies on Harris and this is on the programme of guided hikes by North-West Frontiers. You do need a head for heights to get through one of the sections though. I haven't tried it myself....
Colin Palmer took a series of photos of Scarp which you can view online or buy on CD-ROM.
North Harris
If you continue on the main Tarbert to Stornoway road, you will pass Clisham which at 799 metres is the highest mountain on Harris. On the right is the turn to Maaruig and Rhenigidale. The road drops steeply, then rises again to give you a roller-coaster ride by car. With the hairpin bend and blind summit, it's not the easiest road for nervous drivers. It follows the route of the old track that was used up until recently to access the village. In the days before the road, the only way to reach Rhenigidale was by boat or by one of two tracks. By this route, the village is 13 miles from Tarbert.
Just before the road finally descends to Rhenigidale (where there's a youth hostel and a few houses), you will see a small sign indicating the start of a track to Tarbert. It descends to a group of deserted old houses and winds its way up, down and around the inlet until you have a steep climb zig-zagging up the hill on the other side. Before the summit, another track branches off to the left to the deserted village of Molinginish. Don't take this track unless you want the extra walk there and back. Continue upwards to the cairn at the top of the hill. You then start to head down to Laxadale Lochs which are at the end of this 4-mile track from Rhenigidale. The picturesque Laxadale Lochs are about 2 miles south of Tarbert.
Further up the Tarbert to Stornoway road is white-washed Ardvourlie Castle (not open to the public). Just north of Ardvourlie you pass through Bowglas. The river here marks the boundary between Harris and Lewis. If you look up Loch Seaforth, you will see Seaforth Island which is half in Harris and half in Lewis. Sometimes dolphins can be seen in this sea loch.
The Scaladale Centre is a newly built residential centre near Ardvourlie Castle. Run by Lewis and Harris Youth Clubs Association (LHYCA), it offers self catering accommodation for up to 28 people in dorms of 4 to 6 people (some with en-suite facilities). It can be used by youth groups, schools or businesses and also provides outdoor activities such as kayaking, archery, guided walks and abseiling for groups. Pre-booking essential. Tel: 01859 502 502.
Just by here there is a 1000 metre track up the hillside with spectacular views over Loch Seaforth. Car park at Scaladale Centre or just along the road. This is the start of the 'Harris Walkway' which is a series of paths leading all the way to south Harris.
In March 2003, the people of Harris were proud to purchase the land which is now run by them as the North Harris Trust.
South Harris Here are some of the sights that can be found on the 50-mile circular trip around the south part of the island. If you are driving, please note that even though the west coast road is quite good, the east coast road is narrow and twisting, so it will take a couple of hours to get all the way around even if you don't stop to admire the scenery. Start by driving down the east coast with its rugged landscape and miniature fjords, then come back up the west coast and marvel at the beaches. Here's a photo of typical Harris 'moonscape'.
Take the main road heading south from Tarbert. After a few miles, it branches off to the left on what is called the Golden Road. Explanations vary as to the origin of its name. It was said at the time that it cost so much to build, it must be made of gold. I prefer the more romantic version given in a French guide book which tells of travellers seeing the way ahead paved with gold when it was just the sun shining on the scattered lochs.
| The east coast of Harris is known as The Bays for its miniature fjiords. Otters and seals can often be seen here. The road seems to go on forever up and down, round and round through a dozen townships betraying a mixture of Norse and Gaelic origins: Likisto, Geocrab, Beacravik, Manish. Mile after mile of rugged, windswept terrain surrounds you on every side. |  |
At Plocrapool you can visit Harris Tweed & Knitwear to see weaving or buy gifts. The shop is in the loom shed and you can talk to Katie Campbell about her work. Open Monday - Saturday 9am - 6pm. Tel: 01859 511 217.
Look out for the sign to Ardbuidhe Cottage Gallery at Drinishader. Run by Willie Fulton whose magnificently dramatic paintings can be seen at the Rodel Hotel. Open from 12 - 5pm, Monday - Saturday, April to October. You may also see his wife Moira who also paints and is setting up her own space above the main gallery. Tel: 01859 511218.
The Isle of Harris Knitwear Company can be found at Grosebay. Tel: 01859 511 240.
The new The Bays of Harris Community Centre is worth a stop - home baking, toilets and Internet access. It is situated at Leac a' Li near the road junction where you can cut across to the west coast (along what was the old coffin route). Open summer only Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 4pm.
Just a few miles to the south, Skoon Art Cafe at Geocrab offers cakes, coffees & teas, and is a showcase for oil paintings by Andrew John Craig and other artists. Scottish music CDs are also available to buy. Opening times March - October: Tuesday - Saturday (10am-5pm), and November - February Friday - Saturday (11am-4pm). Tel: 01859 530268
Scenic Cruises operate boat trips from Flodabay with Hamish Taylor.
At Quidinish you can hire a 15ft Hobie Cat from Bruce Dudley of BEsailing. Tel: 01859 5304191.
There's also an art gallery at Finsbay.Before finally reaching Lingarabay, you can take a detour which cuts across the south-east corner of Harris from Finsbay to Leverburgh. Here you will pass Loch Langavat which is the island's largest stretch of fresh water. In the summer you can see evidence of a lot of peat-cutting. From the road you can see peats that have been stacked up in pyramids to dry.
RODEL
If you continue on the Golden Road right to the very end, just before you turn the corner and start to head west, take a walk over to the remains of a broch about 150 metres from the road (map grid reference NG 050831). Shortly afterwards you will arrive at the village of Rodel at the south-eastern tip of Harris.Rodel was once the historic capital, religious centre and the main port of Harris. Today it is hard to realise the importance of this windswept place, but fortunately Saint Clement's Church enables us to understand something of its former significance.
 Link to my photos |
Cruciform in shape, the church was built around 1500 by the Macleods of Dunvegan
and Harris. In 1784 the church was rebuilt by Captain Alexander MacLeod. Three
years later there was a fire and he had to repair his work. In 1873 it was
restored under the orders of the Countess of Dunmore. Today it is in the care of
Historic Scotland. It is thought that the sandstone used inside and around the
windows might have been imported from Carsaig on Mull.
In days gone by the key used to be held at the local hotel where visitors had to go and fetch it. Nowadays, with so many visitors coming here, the key is kept attached to the door. Inside to the right of the entrance is a marble plaque noting the restoration by the Countess of Dunmore. |
Today, at 20 metres long and 5 metres wide, the nave runs directly into the choir, but these might originally have been divided by a timber structure. In the north transept four graveslabs are displayed against the wall. These were moved from their original position in the choir floor to protect them. A fifth graveslab came from a caibeal outside near the tower.
The church's main point of interest are the three tombs carved in black gneiss depicting knights in armour. One of these is the tomb of Alisdair Crotach, the 8th Chief of the MacLeods of Dunvegan, who had it sculpted for himself 19 years before his death in 1547. It is decorated with well-preserved panels containing carvings of the 12 Apostles, angels, the Holy Trinity, the 4 Evangelists, a 12-rayed sun, the Virgin and Child, bishops (one is probably Saint Clement), a hunting scene (possibly representing Crotach himself) with dogs and deer, a castle and galley (MacLeod emblems) and Saint Michael and the Devil at the weighing of souls.
The square tower of the church is a unique architectural feature in these parts. Rising 20 metres above the floor of the nave, it was built on a crop of rock which makes it stand at a higher level than the rest of the church. This soon becomes apparent when you climb the dark staircase and see that the first chamber has a door leading to the outside. Continuing up the dark staircase of the tower you reach the second chamber where a wooden ladder takes you into the third chamber where yet another ladder takes you to the top.
When you go into the graveyard, take a look at this door from the outside. Above it is the carving of a bishop (possibly Saint Clement himself) who is supported by a bull's head. Panels to the left and right show various figures. One of these is the earliest known representation of a man in kilt and plaid. The graveyard contains several 'cabeil' (private burial enclosures). Many of these are for prominent local families.
Due to the large number of visitors and bus trips that come here, toilets have been built near the church. If you approach from the east, you will see them easily enough. The outside is decorated with flowers in the summer (enclosed by a fence to keep the sheep out).
Down at the harbour the Rodel Hotel was refurbished reopened in 2001. As well as providing accommodation and food, it is also home to paintings by local artist Willie Fulton. Bar meals are available at lunchtime and evenings, and the restaurant is open in the evenings. Tel: 01859 520210.
Rodel Fishery - salmon and trout fishing. The fishing season runs from March to the end of October. Not Sundays. Day tickets and half day tickets are available at Rodel Hotel and the Post Office in Leverburgh or phone 07789 584 314. Alternatively book in advance via their web site.
Rodel Valley Log Cabins offers new self catering accommodation in the village (tel: 01859 520465).
LEVERBURGH - My photo
Originally known as Obbe, this village was renamed in 1923 after the soap magnate Lord Leverhulme who set up several disastrous schemes on the island. It is from here that the ferry goes over to Berneray and North Uist.
An Clachan Centre houses a grocery store, tearoom (with toilets) and craft shop. Outside you can buy petrol at the new pumps. There's also a craft shop (The Cauldron) combined with Post Office in the village.
The Anchorage Restaurant (phone 01859 520 225) is next to the pier for the Uist ferry and is a great place for meals and snacks.
Am Bothan Bunkhouse is also close by.
For further details visit Leverburgh.co.ukAn Clachan is displaying an amazing 8 panel tapestry made with Harris Tweed. Completed in June 2001 after many years work by over 100 local people, this unique display depicts 1000 years of Harris history. Each hand-embroidered panel is 5 feet high and two and a half feet wide. Visit the Harris Tapestry web site for photos.
If you wish to walk between Leverburgh and Rodel, there is a route off the main road. It is signposted and part of the way it takes you along the road through the township of Strond with views across the Sound of Harris to North Uist.
You might spot the Blacksheep House with its turf roof - this is an architect designed renovation of a traditional Hebridean Blackhouse, now let as luxury self catering.Harris Cycle Hire can be found at Sorrel Cottage B&B which is at Glen Kyles about a mile and a half from the ferry point in Leverburgh. Tel: 01859 520319
ISLE OF SGARABHAIGH (Scaravay)
This tiny uninhabited island in the Sound of Harris can be visited by charter boat. The owner is offering Associate Ownership of the island as a gift package complete with certificate, rights of access, maps, passport, DVD and even a sample of sand and peat. Visit Scaravay.com for full details about this unique gift scheme ('An Island In A Box') and the island itself.NORTHTON - My photos
A few miles up the road from Leverburgh, you reach the turn-off to the village of Northton where the white and red painted building on the corner is Seallam! - the new exhibition centre which opened in July 2000.
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It is home to an exhibition on the vast genealogical resources founded by Bill and Chris Lawson who live next door in The Old Schoolhouse. They are THE experts on the families of the Western Isles and will research your Hebridean ancestors for a fee. The centre sells various useful data source books specific to the Western Isles, including croft histories, books on local churches and other historical sites, the Isle of Taransay, Hebridean tales, etc. These can also be purchased online via the Bill Lawson Publications web site. |
The visitor centre also contains displays about local wildlife and the formation of the landscape, the way of life of the islanders, peat, Harris Tweed, etc. There is a TV with headphones where you can sit and choose a video. Currently they have 2 special exhibitions about the island of St Kilda, one by Bill Lawson himself, and one by artist Jane Harlington.
The centre also sells a selection of local books, music, videos, postcards and photos, and there is a small corner with tea, coffee and biscuits. Disabled access and toilet facilities. Admission fee for the exhibition. Open all year Monday to Saturday from 9am to 6pm. Telephone / fax: 01859 520 258.
The village of Northton is basically a group of houses strung out along a single road. If you drive down, look for the sign advertising fresh eggs for sale.
At the far end of the village The MacGillivray Centre (opened in July 1998) is named after William MacGillivray, the famous Scottish naturalist who spent most of his early years on his uncle's farm here in Northton. Together with a picnic area and toilets, this interpretive centre illustrates his work and provides an understanding of the island's natural habitat. Built with local stone to blend into the landscape, the centre has a roof made of timber from the grounds of Lews Castle in Stornoway.
You can park at the MacGillivray Centre and follow the track from the end of the road for a walk onto the Toe Head peninsula. Neolithic pottery and bone tools were discovered here in the 1960s. In front of you, the hill called Chaipaval rises 1000 feet out of the sea.
If you follow one of the central or left-hand tracks over the grassy machair from Chapaival, you will see a nice little beach. Continue northwards along the coast, past another beach and you can visit the ruins of what is thought to be a 12th century chapel (Rudh'an Teampull) which may have been constructed by the builders of the church at Rodel. It is 6.4 metres long and 3.4 metres wide. Its location is about 2.5 km north-west of Northton. When I was here I saw seals just off the coast.
After you rejoin the main road, look for the hill called Maodal (250 metres high) which was where an RAF Shackleton aircraft crashed in April 1990, killing all 10 people onboard.
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SCARISTA
One of the houses in this township is the birthplace of Finlay J. MacDonald who wrote the trilogy of books including "Crowdie and Cream" about growing up on Harris in the 1930s. The Scarista Golf Course has 9 holes (no play on Sundays). |
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From the road you can see the remains of a standing stone arrangement (map grid reference NG 021939) - check out the guide by Robert Pollock. I took a photo of the upright stone in May 1997.
Accommodation in Scarista includes Borvemor Cottages (including a traditional thatched black house which you can photograph from the road), West Ranah Cottage and Scarista House (a highly acclaimed hotel with self-catering cottages).
DUN BUIRGH
Broch, rock carvings and later shielings and corn kiln. 700 metre walk from the main road, mostly along a track (map grid reference NG 033940).BORVE LODGE
The former home of Lord Leverhulme who built the circular walled garden. Not open to visitors.NISABOST AND MACLEOD'S STONE - My photos
After passing lots of deserted beaches all the way up the west coast, you might care to stop at this one, Traigh Iar (or Nisabost) just before you reach Horgabost. A sign points the way to Macleod's standing stone on the far side of the sand about 700 metres from the road. The stone is quite large and it's well worth the walk. Robert Pollock has details and diagrams. From the cairn at the top of the hill, you will get panoramic views across to the island of Taransay, north to Luskentyre & Seilebost, and south to Scarista and Northton.ISLE OF TARANSAY - My photo
Named after Saint Tarran, this island is home to the remains of two chapels. Ancient tradition is that if women were buried in the graveyard of St. Keith's chapel or men in St. Tarran's, the bodies would be disinterred overnight. From the west coast of Harris you can see that the island has a nice-looking stretch of golden sand at its middle.At the turn of the century, 70 people lived here, but by 1961 this had dwindled to 5 members of the Macrae family, and later the island became uninhabited. The BBC used the island as the home for a 'social experiment' by getting 32 people to live as a community on Taransay for a year. Only 25 lasted the whole 12 months.
Following public interest in the island, the owner is now offering boat trips so you can stay on the island for a day (depending on the weather) and also self catering accommodation - check out visit-taransay.com
The genealogy centre at Northton sells a book about the island of Taransay by Bill Lawson Publications.
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HORGABOST
Situated in a private garden at number 6 Horgabost is a Neolithic chambered burial cairn of which only the central setting remains. It is clearly visible from the main road at the junction with the road to Glen Horgabost (map grid reference NG 047966). The house is in fact the MacDonalds' B&B. I stayed here in 1997 and it was great waking up to see this view out of the window! Close by is Beannachd - a luxury self catering house ideal for family holidays. |
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A little way inland you will see a cluster of trees - make the most of them, they are a welcome sight on Harris. From the township you can go down to Horgabost beach or walk over to Nisabost beach.
Camping (caravans and tents) is permitted.You can hire a Hobie Cat (15ft twin hull fast sailing dinghy for 4 people) from BEsailing. Instruction available if required. Traction kites, longboarding and windsurfing can also be arranged. Contact Bruce Dudley (tel: 01859 5304191).
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SEILEBOST & LUSKENTYRE
There's a marvellous viewpoint from the road at the top of the hill where you can look across the Seilebost sand dunes to the sands of Luskentyre, with the hills of North Harris in the background. If you take the track signposted to Seilebost school, you can park and walk on the beach. Luskentyre is signposted off the main road a little further along and a single track road leads you through the village itself. Camping (caravans and tents) is permitted - look for the sign near the first house. |
The road through Luskentyre village goes past the old cemetery. Families often had to bring their own soil from elsewhere on the island before they could lay their dead to rest. You will see a place selling Harris Tweed by Donald John Mackay (who made the material for the Harris Tweed Nike shoes).
Keep driving to the end of the road and you will find the new cemetery which has a large car park. From here you can walk into the dunes and often walk a mile along the sand before you even see anyone else.
Accommodation in Luskentyre includes: Atlantic Shore Cottages and 3 Luskentyre self catering.
Accommodation at Seilebost includes: 5 star Caberfeidh cottage, Beul na Mara B&B and Cottages, and a traditional house available as a Self Catering Cottage.
Walks on Harris
Harris is an excellent island for a variety of walks - hills, beaches, machair, rocky moonscape. However, this is a wild, windswept island where the weather can change very quickly. Make sure you know exactly where you are going before you set off. Warm waterproof clothing, food, water and a map are essential. Ask the locals for their advice or if you want an organised trip of guided hiking.
Halfway between the old whaling station and Amhuinnsuidhe Castle is the village of Meavaig. Just after you cross the bridge, park by the roadside near the estate hut. This is the start of the track to Loch Voshimid where J.M. Barrie got some of his inspiration for 'Mary Rose'. The track runs all the way past Loch Scourst which sits at the bottom of Sron Scourst (491 metres) to Loch Voshimid. You can walk there and back quite easily (8 km return). If you prefer tougher walking and have the necessary experience on the hills then you can continue on from Loch Voshimid to Vigidale. From Meavaig to Vigidale it is a total of 15 km (5-6 hours).
Another walk can be taken just before you reach Amhuinnsuidhe where a path leads to Loch Chliostair (4 km return). Just before the castle, you will see a salmon farm in the loch. A private road on the right of the main road leads through a locked gate and up eventually to the hydro-electric power station. You may wish to cycle this part instead of walk. From the power station, the track climbs to Chliostair dam and from there you will see the loch spread out before you surrounded by hills. A rocky path runs along its right shore and this stretches for some miles into the interior of the island.
From Tarbert take the road to Scalpay. After a couple of miles you reach Laxadale Lochs. A path leads down to the left along the side of the loch. It continues northwards for 7 km to Maaruig (which is just off the main Tarbert to Stornoway road).
Alternatively near the car park at the bottom of the Laxadale Lochs valley, just before the road bends to the right, you can take the path to Rhenigidale over the hills. It will take you about 2 hours to get there. The return journey is 13 km in total.
You can also walk from Maaruig to Rhenigidale to Tarbert which is 9 km one way.
In South Harris, there are several old roads in the east of the island. You can walk from Drinishader to Grosebay to Stockinish or between Plocrapool and Scadabay. There's also a 7-mile track over the hills from Stockinish to Seilebost on the west coast which is signposted from the road. This follows the ancient 'Coffin Track' used by islanders living on the east coast who had to carry their dead to the cemetery at Luskentyre.
Excursions
ISLE OF SCALPAY
This little island (about 2 miles long and 1 mile wide with a population of 400 people) was reached by ferry from Kyles Scalpay (5 miles east of Tarbert) up until December 1997. Now a bridge has been built there providing a permanent link with Harris. This was officially opened in 1998 by Britain's Prime Minister Tony Blair and his wife. It was the first visit of a serving Prime Minister to the Western Isles.A much earlier famous visitor was Bonnie Prince Charlie who landed on Scalpay on 29 April 1746 when he was looking for a boat to take him over to France.
On the eastern tip of the island is Eilean Glas where you can still see one of the original lighthouses that was constructed in 1788/9. The new tower was built in 1824. There are footpaths to reach the lighthouse with coloured waymarkers so you can do a circuit (however it is prudent to take a proper map, compass and good boots). The views over to Skye and along the coast are nice on a good day. You can also see the Shiant Isles from here.
If you would like to go diving around the islands then contact Phil or Anne at Scalpay Diving Services, 34 Outend - tel: 01859 540 328.
Visit scalpay.com for more info about the island.
Accommodation on Scalpay includes Hirta House B&B and Stac Pollaidh self catering cottage.
NORTH UIST
Why not take the ferry from Leverburgh over to the Isle of North Uist for the day? See the Vehicle ferry from Harris to Uist paragraph at the top of this page for details.
Featured Accommodation
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Hotels |
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Contact: Angus & Chirsty Macleod Hotel Hebrides Pier Road Tarbert Isle of Harris HS3 3DG. Tel: 01859502364 Fax: 01859502578. Email: stay@hotel-hebrides.com Four 4 star self catering cottages
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Hotel Hebrides
Due to open in December 2008 as a boutique style hotel
The Pierhouse restaurant is open to residents & non residents
Choice of 20 elegant bedrooms
B&B prices from £50 per night (2 sharing).
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Contact: Katie Macaskill Ardhasaig House Isle of Harris HS3 3AJ Tel: 01859 50 2500 Mobile 07765211375 Fax 01859 50 2077 Email: accommodation@ardhasaig.co.uk 4 star self catering cottage
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Ardhasaig House
Family-run 4 star small hotel with excellent reputation for Hebridean hospitality.
Highly recommended licensed restaurant.
Choice of bedrooms:
Additional accommodation for 2 is available in The Barn
B&B prices from £50 per night.
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Bed and Breakfast |
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Contact: Mrs Kathleen Macleod 10 Luskentyre Isle of Harris HS3 3HL Telephone: 01859 550324 Mobile: 07876654567 Email: tenluskentyre@hotmail.co.uk |
B&B at 10 Luskentyre
Outstanding location set by the beach at Luskentyre
1 double bedroom with king size double bed,
B&B from £35 per night.
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Contact Mrs Margaret Morrison
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High quality B&B on the island of Scalpay.
Choice of 3 bedrooms including
B&B prices from £27.50 per person.
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Contact Mrs. Catherine Morrison
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Beul na Mara B&B
Panoramic views across the sands of Seilebost & Luskentyre
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Star B&B.
B&B prices from £37.50 per person per night
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Horgabost B&B
On the beautiful west coast, Horgabost is close to many beaches.
1 single room & 1 family room.
Open from May to October.
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Mrs. Chirsty Mackinnon
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Highcroft B&B
Modern croft house with Gaelic speaking hosts.
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Stars.
B&B prices from £24 per person.
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Self Catering
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Contact: Dina Stewart
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Glen Carragrich
Traditional cottage. Sleeps 6. Situated 3 miles from Tarbert on the Scalpay road. Wonderful views of East Loch Tarbert. 3 double bedrooms, bathroom with bath and shower.
House in West Tarbert
1 double bedroom, 1 twin bedroom, 2 bathrooms.
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Contact: Nina Morrison Tel: 01463 713733 Email: nina@finmorcottage.co.uk |
Traditional cottage at Ardhasaig overlooking the North Harris hills with
3 bedrooms (2 double & 1 twin).
Rental prices from £320 - £450 per week
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Contact: Angus & Chirsty Macleod Hotel Hebrides Pier Road Tarbert Isle of Harris HS3 3DG Tel: 01859502364 Fax: 01859502578. Email: stay@hotel-hebrides.com |
Kirklea Self Catering Cottages Charming terrace of 4 cottages in Tarbert
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Stars.
Rental prices from £350 - £450 per week
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Contacts:
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Modern, 3 bedroom house overlooking Loch Tarbert.
Sleeps up to 6 people in 3 bedrooms
Rental prices from £350 per week
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Contact: Rebecca Passmore
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Brand new top quality Douglas fir log cabin
1 double bedroom and 1 bunk room.
Front garden with porch.
Rental prices from £500 - £750 per week
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Contact: Kathryn and Raymond Campbell
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Newly built luxurious cottage in Strond (sleeps 6).
3 bedrooms:
Facilities include washing maching, tumble dryer,
Rental prices from £750 per week
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Contact:
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Laxdale Cottage
Isolated retreat set in the hills near Luskentyre.
Sleeps up to 5 people.
Prices from £250 per week
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Contact:
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3 Luskentyre
Choice of 2 separate self catering properties
House (sleeps up to 8 in 3 bedrooms):
Annexe (sleeps 4 in 2 bedrooms):
Both properties have central heating throughout
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Contact Mrs. Catherine Morrison
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Beul na Mara Cottages
Choice of 2 cottages on the magnificent west coast.
1 Cottage (sleeps 5 people):
1 Cottage (sleeps 7 people):
Both cottages have microwave, dish washer,
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Contact:
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Beannachd
Recently built luxury family house with stunning views
Awaiting inspection by the Scottish Tourist Board
Large kitchen / dining room with dishwasher, electric oven,
Rental prices from £750 per week
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Contact:
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Sandview Cottage
Bungalow overlooking Scarista golf course
Sleeps 6: 3 bedrooms (1 twin & 2 double),
Rental prices: £375 per week
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Contact Mrs Margaret Morrison
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Stac Pollaidh
Self catering house on the Isle of Scalpay.
Recently refurbished and decorated to a high standard.
Prices from £280 - £300 per week.
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Contact:
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Ullabhal and Cleiseabhal
2 houses renovated in 2004 to a very high standard.
1 house has a king-size double bedroom
Perfect for couples, small families or small groups.
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Contact:
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Croft Cottage
Luxury self catering Hebridean style house.
Scottish Tourist Board 5 Stars.
Facilities include satellite TV with sports channels,
Rental prices from £900 - £1200 per week
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Caberfeidh
Contact: Mrs Lesley Wiseman
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Caberfeidh
Large detached house (sleeps up to 6).
Large lounge / dining room with wood-burning stove,
4 bedrooms:
Rental prices from £650 - £995 per week
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Blacksheep House
Contact: Pete and Christine Hope
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Blacksheep House
Unique architect designed contemporary renovation
Scottish Tourist Board 4 Stars.
Spacious open plan living area with vast panoramic windows.
Master bedroom with kingsize bed, CD/radio, hairdryer.
Prices from £770 per week
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Contact Nina Beveridge
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West Ranah Cottage
Cottage built in 2003 to a traditional Highland design plus all modern facilities.
The house is fully furnished and equipped to a very high standard.
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Contact Mrs Kathleen Macleod
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The White Cottage
Traditional island cottage with modern amenities.
Sleeps 3. 1 double bedroom and 1 single bedroom.
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Contact Mrs Nan Morrison
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Cottage at Seilebost
Idyllic location at Seilebost on the west coast of Harris.
Accommodation comprises lounge, large kitchen/diner,
Open from April to October.
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Contact Mrs Margaret Bennett
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Borvemor Cottages
Choice of 4 properties just a short walk from sandy beaches
Traditional thatched Black House (Tigh Dubh)
Vallay House recently built up from the walls of 18th Century Borvemor House.
2 adjoining steading cottages.
Prices from £395 - £685 per week per property.
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Contact Mrs Isobel MacKay
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Atlantic Shore Cottages
Choice of 2 new cottages overlooking the sands of Luskentyre
Spacious and very well equipped for the comfort of guests in mind.
Shore Cottage (sleeps 6):
Atlantic Cottage (sleeps 4):
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Serviced Accommodation |
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Amhuinnsuidhe Castle
Accommodation for up to 18 people (fully catered).
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There is a range of hotels, B&B and self-catering accommodation available on Harris and Lewis. The ones in the tourist brochure are now listed on the official Western Isles Tourist Board web site.
If you are going self catering and don't want to prepare all your own meals or eat out every night, then a nice alternative is provided by Lena Maclennan of Atlantic Edge, based in South Harris. She can offer a choice of homemade starters, main meals and desserts which be delivered to your cottage ready to be re-heated. Please give her at least 24 hours notice. Tel: 01859 520766 for a menu.
Hotel / Guest House / B&B accommodation includes:
- Avalon overlooks West Loch Tarbert and is the first/last house in Tarbert on the road to Stornoway. 3 bedrooms (double/twin/family). STB 4 Stars. Dinner available. Disabled facilities. Contact John & Arlene Morrison. Tel: 01859 502334.
- Ardhasaig Hotel (just outside Tarbert) overlooks the old whaling station and North Harris hills. Scottish Hotel Breakfast of the Year Runner Up 2005. Scottish Island Hotel of the Year Runner Up 2005. This small 4 star hotel has 5 bedrooms in the main house and an annexe lodge. In addition to B&B, you can also opt for a four course evening meal. Tel: 01859 502 500.
- Carminish House is a 3 star B&B on the Strond road near the Leverburgh ferry in South Harris. 3 bedrooms: 1 double and 2 twin. Dinner by arrangement. Tel: 01859 520400.
- Dunvegan View overlooks The Minch at Cluer and is about 7 miles south of Tarbert. 2 ensuite bedrooms with sea views: 1 double and 1 twin. Scottish Tourist Board 4 Stars. Dinner on request. Contact Anne Broadbent, tel: 01859 530294.
- Grimisdale Guest House at Leverburgh has 2 ensuite double rooms, 1 ensuite family room (sleeps four) with whirlpool bath and 1 family room (sleeps 3). STB 4 Stars. Open March - November. Evening meals available (must be booked in advance). Contact Farquhar MacLeod. Telephone: 01859 520460.
- Harris Hotel in Tarbert. Food and accommodation. 24 bedrooms. Tel: 01859 502154.
- Highcroft is a modern croft house on the Isle of Scalpay overlooking East Loch Tarbert. B&B in 1 double room and 1 family room (sleeps up to 4). 4 stars. Contact: Chirsty MacKinnon. Tel: 01859 540305.
- Hotel Hebrides (formerly the Macleod Motel) by the pier in Tarbert. Currently undergoing extensive refurbishment and due to re-open in August 2008 offering luxurious accommodation and good food. Contact Angus & Chirsty Macleod. Tel: 01859 502364.
- New Haven is a 4 star B&B on Scalpay with 2 ensuite double rooms. Contact Mrs Mairi MacLennan. Tel: 01859 540325.
- Pairc an t-Srath Guest House at Borve on the west coast of Harris. 4 ensuite bedrooms and excellent food. Evening meals available. Contact Lena Maclennan 01859 520766.
- Rodel Hotel, south Harris. Good restaurant and bar. Accommodation in 4 bedrooms. Newly refurbished. Self catering also available. Tel: 01859 520210.
- Scarista House on the west coast of the island is an excellent hotel and also has two self-catering cottages in its grounds. The hotel is open to non-residents for evening dinner throughout the year. Contact Tim and Patricia Martin. Tel: 01859 550238.
- Tigh na Mara - described by the Lonely Planet guide as "A good B&B is the cosy Tigh na Mara, a 5 minute walk from the ferry with views of the East Loch from all beds". STB 3 stars. 1 double/family bedroom, 1 twin, 1 single. Contact John and Flora Morrison. Tel: 01859 502270.
Self-catering:
- 4 Cliasmol is a newly restored, single storey traditional croft house offering open plan self catering accommodation suitable for 1 or 2 adults, with 1 or 2 small children. Situated about 7 miles along the B887 to Hushinish beach.
- 4 Marig (Maaruig) is a 3-bedroom house sitting on the edge of Loch Seaforth 15 mins drive from Tarbert and 45 mins from Stornoway. Open all year. Tel: 01851 820466 .
- Aird Villa is a 4-bedroom self catering house on Scalpay.
- Bayhead is a modern bungalow in Lingerbay, about 3 miles from Rodel. This 5-bedroom house can be let as a whole for up to 8 people, or as separate self contained units (with 3 and 2 bedrooms).
- Clisham Cottage at Ardhasaig (just outside Tarbert) overlooks the old whaling station and North Harris hills. 4 stars. Modern and fully equipped, it sleeps 6 in 3 bedrooms.
- Dun Corr is a cottage sleeping 5 in 4 bedrooms. It faces the Tarbert ferry pier. Contact Alister Macdonald. Telephone: 01463 2